safety Archives

Water Heaters

June 7, 2020 by Mark Brickhouse

This article provides a brief overview of the safety components of a water heater and some of the latest trends in water heaters. Many deficiencies related to water heaters are also safety issues. While performing home inspections in Waco, I will often find deficiencies with water heaters.

Gas Water Heaters:

waco home inspections — While performing home inspections, I will often find a lack of adequate flue clearance to combustibles.

Since gas water heaters burn gas, they have the potential to produce carbon monoxide. Modern standards require a gas heater to draw combustion air from an outside source, such as the attic or crawl space, or from outside. Combustion air that is required is based on the BTU's of the unit. Manufacturer's recommendations should be followed, and will vary based on the manufacturer, size and output of the water heater. When outside combustion air is provided, the water heater should be sealed from the living quarters, usually with a solid door and threshold. While this is a code requirement now, many houses that were built in the past had louvred or vented doors that provided combustion air from the living space. If outside combustion air is not provided, the room where air is drawn from should be large enough to provide the air, and a carbon monoxide alarm should be present. People lose their lives every year because they were poisoned by carbon monoxide, when an alarm would likely have saved their lives.

Gas connections should be tight and not leaking. If a leak is detected or if there is a smell of gas, this should be addressed immediately by a licensed plumber. Gas explosions can and do occur, and can cause extensive damage, as well as serious injury and death.

Gas water heaters should have proper exhaust ventilation, which includes a type B vent that exhausts straight up, preferably. Specific manufacturer's recommendations should be followed. While inspecting this item, your home inspector can be expected to verify that the flue is a Type B or double walled. Even with this type of flue, it should be at least an inch clear of any combustible material and should have a heat ring where it goes through the ceiling. There should also be a Type B cap at the top where it ends above the roof. All connections should be tight and should have three screws, although this is rare based on my experience.

Location Matters:

home inspection in waco — Water heaters should be 18 inches above floor level when located in a garage.

If a water heater is located in a garage, it should be at least 18 inches above the floor. This is to prevent gas or solvent fumes from igniting and causing a fire or explosion. Many newer water heaters now have FVIR, or flame vapor ignition resistant systems; while FVIR may allow for putting a water heater on a garage floor, I prefer to err on the side of caution and will recommend a platform when inspecting a house for this condition, because the FVIR could fail. Water heaters located in a garage should also be protected from possible damage by cars, either by location or with physical barriers, such as a framed closet.

Standard Safety Features:

One safety feature on all standard water heaters, and perhaps the most important, is the TPR valve, or Temperature/Pressure Release. This will discharge if the temperature becomes too hot or the pressure is too high. If it works under these circumstances, it will release scalding steam. Therefore, the extension should end in a reasonably safe location. If it is not working as intended when there is too much heat or pressure, it can cause damage, injury or death. If anyone has seen the Myth Busters episode on what happens when a water heater malfunctions either with temperature or pressure, then it has been firmly established there is a great potential for danger. Here is a link to that episode on You Tube in case you missed it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bU-I2ZiML0

Home inspection deficiencies — TPR valves can release scalding steam and should be safely extended.

TPR valves can become frozen shut or stuck. The best way to insure that the valve is working correctly is to operate it at least once a year. This should be done by a licensed plumber, since these valves may develop a leak when "exercised" or there may be some other reason for it to be replaced, such as corrosion. TPR valves in older homes should be extended to within 6 inches of the floor with material rated for the heat and pressure, and should be the same size as the valve, typically 3/4 inches; the extension should never be capped, and it should not have threads that will allow capping. Sometimes PEX is used for an extension. While it is a suitable material, it is also flexible, and should be secured so that it will not move under pressure. In homes built in the past ten years, this extension is directed to the exterior, and should terminate to a safe location for discharge.

Electric Water Heaters

The power supply should be armored cable or a similar suitable material, and the equipment should be properly grounded or bonded. There should be an emergency disconnect within 25 feet of the heater. If water supply is iron or metal, there should be a jumping bond between the hot and cold supplies.

While there are other considerations that go with inspecting a water heater, the items listed above cover safety in general.

new home inspection — Many newer homes have on demand water heaters that take less space and are more efficient.

There are two developments with water heaters that are relatively new. First, as of June 2015, water heaters are now required to meet enhanced energy efficiency, which includes more insulation. More insulation means larger heaters, increasing the diameter by about 4 inches. If your heater is in a tight closet, this may be something to consider. Another development that is getting more common is the use of in-line or tank-less water heaters. These are available in both gas and electric models, are very space efficient, and are also more energy efficient. The early versions of these tended to produce less hot water than most people are used to. However, more recent designs have improved a lot, and tank-less water heaters are becoming a more viable alternative. Again, the specific manufacturer's instructions should be carefully followed.

Deck Safety: An Important Part of Home Inspections

April 9, 2020 by Mark Brickhouse

Decks and Balconies
One important part of home inspections is deck safety. Every year, people are injured or killed because of deck and balcony collapses. One incident I read of in California, where six people lost their lives for being on a balcony, inspired me to write briefly on the topic. When I first began building, I thought that decks were over-built. Why so many supports, hangers, bolts and lag screws? Why are we pretending it needs to hold a tank? My boss at that time explained the reason very well. He told me that I should assume any deck would be filled with people. This is when I became much more appreciative of why we were building such stout decks. We were not going to fool around with people’s lives!
These days, while performing home inspections in the Waco area, I am especially diligent with deck inspections. Here are some questions I consider while inspecting decks:

What are the spans between the support beams? There are span limitations with any species of wood in regard to size. If the deck has not been engineered by a professional engineer, a span table can be helpful.
How is the ledger attached? Ledgers should be well-secured to the house frame in most cases. This usually involves a minimum of two 3/8 inch by 5 inch lag screws every 32 inches. Carriage bolts are even better, but these can only be installed in new construction. Too many fasteners, within reason, is better than not enough fasteners.
Are approved connectors in use? These are joist hangers, post to beam connections, elevated post anchors and other connectors that are designed to insure that the framing members will not pull apart over time due to weathering, expansion and contraction. Of course, they also add strength and integrity to the structure overall. Fasteners should be galvanized or stainless steel to resist corrosion. Typically, 1 1/2 inch 10D nails are required with connectors.
Is diagonal bracing present on supports for raised decks? The rule of thumb for this is for decks that are 12 feet or higher above ground, but even at 8 feet, I would recommend diagonal bracing. At the very worst, it is a bit too much, and that is never a bad thing when it comes to decks.

The numbered points above only apply to some types of decks. Another style uses cantilever, where the joist supports extend into the floor framing of the house or structure. The rule of thumb for this is for every foot that extends from the building, two feet extend into the floor area. These types of decks or balconies are difficult to inspect with any certainty on a completed house. They are also difficult to maintain properly and can lose integrity over time. A better, more reliable design would include steel beams.

A house at Lake Whitney I inspected last year had a deck that served as a strong example of a dangerous deck. It provided a gorgeous view, but I was nervous being on it with just two other people. I hope the pictures speak for themselves, but there are some comments to help.

Loose handrail and newel post, not able to resist 200 pounds of lateral pressure as generally required. No balusters or spindles at the staircase handrail to help prevent a fall of considerable distance. Balusters or spindles that were present were spaced more than the required minimum of 4 inches. These conditions presented a safety hazard.

Diagonal bracing provided support to the deck at its highest elevation, which was 16 feet and dropping because of the slope of the ground. A fall from that end or a deck collapse could result in severe injury or death. The bracing was connected to an upright post about 12 feet back, which also had bracing, forming a “web.” While this may have been sufficient to hold the deck and even a few people, this section should be able to hold as many people as could fit in that area, or 20-25 people. Would you want to join a large group of people on this deck?

Support posts were not secured to concrete piers on elevated post anchors as typically required. Support posts and beams were landscape timbers, which are not necessarily rated for strength, and are not intended to provide framing support of any kind. There were no post to beam connections as typically required.

Note the landscape timbers used for beam support and the post that is cracked from top to bottom. There were no joist hangers, which are typically required and provide added safety. Although this section was only five feet above ground, how comfortable would that feel if you were unprepared for a sudden fall?

Here is a sagging handrail with a 16 foot drop below, underscoring a need for mid-span newel posts. Horizontal wires were questionable, but technically okay. Unfortunately, when I pushed on the railing there, it was loose and wobbly. The view was breathtaking, but the fall would really take your breath away.

The post at left in the above picture looked like this below where it had been secured to the rim joist. With a 16 foot potential fall, wouldn’t you want that post to have lag bolts or carriage bolts? Wouldn’t you feel a bit safer if the rim joist was doubled there, which is a best practice? This deck was a danger to life and limb, and I gave my professional opinion thoroughly in the inspection report for this house.

This deck not only had to support itself, but also provided support to an upper floor of the house. Stone dressed columns were not directly supported under the deck, which is not visible in this picture. Also note the warped deck planking near the hot tub.

Decks should be well-designed and built with what may be called redundant features. In a nutshell, there should be no doubt that a deck will hold as many people as can fit on it with no strain. However, even a well-built deck needs ongoing maintenance. Flat surfaces are especially vulnerable to the effects of water and sun damage. Because of this, it is important to keep your deck well-sealed or painted. This will protect the surfaces and extend the life of the materials.

If you have read this far and would like an inspection of your deck, feel free to contact me. I can provide you with information on the condition of it and make recommendations for repairs or maintenance as a third party inspector.

A Little Bit on Dryer Venting

April 8, 2020 by Mark Brickhouse

There are many deficiencies that occur with dryer venting that can reduce dryer efficiency, and can even be a fire or health hazard . This article outlines some of the more common deficiencies.

Venting a Dryer to a Roof:

According to current requirements, a dryer exhaust vent can be 25 feet long; this gets reduced to 20 feet with a ninety degree turn, and floor design may make venting to the roof a practical option for builders; not so much for homeowners, though. There can be problems with venting to roofs. First of all, homeowners have to pay for routine cleaning as a best practice for a safe dryer vent. They certainly should not risk being on a roof, when falls are 25% of homeowner injuries.

While there are roof vent caps that are specifically designed for dryer exhausts, many I have encountered in the last seven years were not. A standard roof vent is often in place, which is screened over. These can become clogged very quickly, reducing dryer efficiency, and can cause leaks or even mold to develop. Other times, roof vents may have their screens removed, but with no closing flap as required, insect or pest problems can develop. In my professional opinion, the best time to vent a dryer to the roof top is only when there is no other option.

Fortunately there are other options. One of the more obvious solutions is installing a vent-less dryer. As you can imagine, these are more expensive than standard dryers. As a consumer, you would have to weigh the added cost compared to the cost of having your vent professionally cleaned on a regular basis. Another option is a dryer duct booster fan, which may not only extend the allowable length of duct (in some cases, up to 150 feet), but may also improve drying time and efficiency. There are several brands that range from $82 to $315. The best time to install one, however, is while a house is under construction, and they do require electricity.

Venting to Improper Locations:

If a dryer duct does not go to the exterior, then wherever it goes to is an improper location, whether it is to a garage, an attic or crawlspace. This condition is commonly found in older homes. I recently performed an inspection where the dryer had been venting into the attic for years, leaving heavy deposits of lint there. The homeowner did not even know this! Warm, moist air in the attic can lead to mold or cause structural damage. It can even be a fire hazard.

Speaking of fire hazards, what’s wrong with venting into the garage? For starters, there should not be any kind of vent penetration between the house and garage for fire safety reasons. This will nullify fire separation requirements, and venting into an area where flammable liquids or combustible gasses are present increases fire hazard as well. Even if an occupant dodges that fate, there is still another condition that is guaranteed to develop. Garage drywall, especially on the ceiling, will become damaged. Given enough time, it may simply collapse, no longer held by the fasteners. Even venting to a rooftop is a better option than not venting to the exterior at all.

Improper Vent Materials

Dryer vent material, especially going through concealed spaces like wall cavities, should be smooth metal and should be a minimum 28 gauge thickness. The vent pictured above is made of the wrong material. Although this is available at box stores, vinyl is not considered to be suitable. Even many “metallic” flexible vents are low quality and are not much of an upgrade over vinyl. Flexible vents should be made of thicker material than either of the ones pictured above, and are available. They cost more, but since thousands of fires that are associated with dryers or their vents occur every year, it may be worth a few more dollars.